Rocky Mountain High, Canada! Adventures in Banff National Park 🇨🇦
The end of the school year means that it's time for my annual trip with Shannon! Since 2023, we have gone on a trip together during our summer vacations. Even though I didn't teach this year we still continued our tradition. So far we have done Universal Studios/Disney, Iceland, and the Florida Keys. This summer we decided to go to Banff National Park in Alberta, Canada. We both have been thinking about doing this trip for a while, so we were excited to make it happen!
We had an evening flight from Boston so we ate dinner at the airport before we got on the plane. Our flight was with West Jet and it was very pleasant. We met a very nice woman at our gate who gave us really great tips and advice on what to do in Banff! We boarded our plane and arrived in Calgary around 10 PM. The Calgary airport was easy to navigate and had beautiful pictures of the mountains and artwork throughout the terminals. We did the advance declaration through ArriveCAN to save time at immigration and we made our way to get our rental car. I booked a Toyota Corolla Cross through Turo, which was perfect for our needs. I liked it so much that I might make it my next vehicle someday! We picked it up in the parking garage and drove to Canmore which was just about an hour away. We arrived at our Air B & B for the next week and settled in. While we were a bit far from Banff and had to drive into the park each day, staying outside of the National Park helped us save a lot of money on lodging.
Via Ferrata at Mt. Norquay
After arriving late last night, we decided to sleep in a little bit and have a late breakfast. We made our way to Summit Cafe in Canmore. The parking lot here is pretty small but there is plenty of street parking. You order at the counter and they bring the food to your table. They use action figures for the table numbers which was so cute, and we were lucky to get Spiderman. We both loved our breakfast here, and they had homemade pastries too. If you like huevos rancheros, the locals told us they have the best in town.
After breakfast we did some grocery shopping to stock up on snacks & meals for the week. Before we knew it, it was time for today's adventure, the Via Ferrata at Mt. Norquay. The phrase "Via Ferrata" is Italian for iron road. Essentially it's like rock climbing mixed with hiking. All along the route, there are steel cables and rungs drilled deep into the rock that you use to help you climb up. To get to Mt. Norquay we drove up a very steep and winding road. On this road we got to see so many big horned sheep! When we arrived we checked in and waited for our guide to meet us. While we waited we saw a grizzly bear! Although it was very far away, it was still cool to see it high up on the mountainside. We met our guide Katsu who helped us get into our safety gear. We took the chairlift up to the top where we would be starting our hike and Katsu went over how to use the equipment. On our harnesses were two carabiner clips on stretchy leashes and we used these to attach onto the steel cables. The cables were continuous along the route, but there were a lot of points where you had to detach and reattach. The most important rule was to do the clips one at a time so no matter what you would always be connected to the cables!
We did some practice using our equipment and then we started hiking. We had to walk for a little bit along a trail to get to the starting point of the climb. When we arrived, we were shocked to see a vertical rock face with iron rungs and cables. Shannon and I looked at each other and we were like.... "Wait, what? We're climbing up THAT?" We thought it was going to be mostly a hike with some climbing, but it was actually the other way around. We mostly were crawling up a rock face vertically with some hiking in between. Honestly it was a good thing we didn't really know, because we probably would have chickened out. 🤣 Anyways, Shannon was first in line behind Katsu so she braved the wall, grabbed onto the rungs and started climbing up. Our guide Katsu was so reassuring and helpful throughout the four hours of climbing. He took so many pictures and made jokes to keep us distracted from the fact that we were hanging off a giant rock. Along the route, there was a long suspension bridge and a couple of balance beam planks we had to cross. At first we were a little apprehensive, but we got used to it and really enjoyed it! We finally made it to the top of the mountain and had an amazing view of the surrounding areas. It was so beautiful!
We made our way back down feeling exhausted but very proud of ourselves. If you are looking into doing the Via Ferrata, make sure you know what you are signing up for. If you are afraid of heights, this might not be for you. There are five different routes you can choose and we went with the Ridgewalker. This was about 4 hours long and we felt it was perfect for our fitness level. We probably could have done a longer one, but it was good to take it easy on our first day here. I also recommend wearing long pants to avoid scrapes and using the gloves they provided because the cables and clips were rough on our hands. We got really lucky with the weather, it was sunny and cool so we were comfortable. Our group only had eight people, so we did not have to spend too long waiting for anyone. Katsu informed us that afternoon trips are often cancelled due to thunder and lightning so if this is very important to you, book in the morning! We were so exhausted from our hiking and we had an early morning the next day, so we decided to eat at home tonight. Our apartment complex had a hot tub which felt amazing after all that rock climbing. We made popcorn chicken with with mac and cheese, showered, and went to bed early!
Sunrise at Moraine Lake
We set our alarms for 2 AM this morning because we were watching the sunrise at Moraine Lake! We hopped out of bed, grabbed some breakfast to go and headed on our way. We had to drive about an hour to our pick up point in downtown Lake Louise. To help eliminate traffic and parking issues in Banff, the road to Moraine Lake is closed to personal vehicles, so you have to take a shuttle service to get there. We used the Moraine Lake Bus Company and they were so amazing. When we booked we were not sure how long we wanted to stay at Moraine Lake and they were able to move around our departure time for us that same day. The drivers were all very kind and helpful. I would 100% recommend them! Anyways, we parked our car and got on the shuttle in the complete darkness. From our pick up point they drove us about 20-30 minutes to Lake Moraine. We were on the very first shuttle, so we were the first people to arrive there around 4 AM. We went to the bathroom quickly and went up The Rockpile Trail to find a good spot to watch the sunrise. This trail was only a 10 minute walk with some steps, overall very easy! If you are hiking in the dark, make sure to bring a light. We found a nice spot to sit and then we waited. We were lucky that we found a spot because a lot of people came up to watch the sunrise and it got very crowded! It did get pretty chilly while we were waiting, so make sure you wear layers. We both brought our winter hats and I wore my wool leggings under my hiking pants. There are ten peaks that surround the lake and it was so fun to watch the sunlight hit each one. I probably took more than 300 pictures! 🤣 We had a perfectly clear morning with no clouds and minimal wind so we were able to see the mountains reflecting in the lake. Overall, it was an amazing experience and I am so glad we woke up to do it! The only thing I would change is maybe bringing a hot beverage in a thermos to enjoy while sitting and waiting for the sunrise.
After watching the sunrise we did the Shoreline Trail. The trail goes around the perimeter of Moraine Lake. The trail was easy, warmed us up, and we met a few lovely people along the route. It took us about 2 hours to complete because there were lots of great spots to take pictures so make sure to leave time for that. We were getting really hungry because we had already been up for 6 hours, so we sat on a bench and ate our pb&j sandwiches that we packed. If you are here early for sunrise, the cafe and gift shop do not open till 8!
Next up was canoeing on Moraine Lake. There are no reservations, so you have to wait in line to put your name in. Since we were there so early we did not have to wait long at all and got in a canoe around 8:30 AM. We were one of the first canoes out on the lake. We decided to rent a canoe for one hour which was enough time to paddle around the entire lake and take lots of pictures. From the canoe we were able to see different views of the mountains and we had an absolute blast. We both really enjoyed this and it was well worth the price! ($160 per canoe). If you are planning on canoeing here, make sure you go early because it does get very busy. When we were leaving around 10 AM, almost all the canoes were in use. We browsed the gift shop on our way out too.
Lake Louise & Lake Agnes Teahouse
Originally we had planned to go home after Lake Moraine and rest, but we looked at the weather forecast and decided to go to Lake Louise today too. The rest of the week looked a little rainy and we both wanted to see Lake Louise on a clear day. We took the shuttle back to our car and made a plan. We knew parking there so late in the day would be a nightmare so we didn't want to take our car. We asked the front desk of the hotel we parked at for the best way to get to Lake Louise and they suggested the local bus route that picked up from the Recreation Center! This only cost $5 each and it was a great solution for us. We stopped at a gas station to purchase some snacks, caught the bus, and headed towards Lake Louise. When we arrived, it was very crowded so be prepared for a lot of people along the shoreline.
Our plan was to do the Lake Agnes Teahouse hike. This hike was much harder than we thought! It took us about 2 hours to get to the top. We stopped along the way to take pictures and to take several breaks. On the way we passed Mirror Lake which was a great stopping point too. It could have been the elevation, waking up at 2 AM, or a combination of everything, but we were exhausted! We thought about continuing on to the Little Beehive lookout but we were too tired. Once we reached the Teahouse, we waited in line to get seated. It took about 40 minutes to get a table here. It is very small and super busy so be prepared to wait. You can order food and tea to go, but I really wanted to sit down and enjoy it. We were told that they only take cash so make sure you bring some. I did see one of the waitresses accepting digital payments so maybe it has changed, but bring cash just in case!
I really enjoyed the teahouse and thought it was so much fun! The teahouse has no electricity or running water, and the workers hike up the night before and sleep in cabins. All the baking supplies are brought in by helicopter and the trash has to be hiked down. I could see myself working here. Shannon got a lemonade and a pastry and I ordered the Canadian maple tea, homemade vegetable soup and bread. It was so delicious. Overall, it was a really cool experience and I am so glad we did it. If I were to visit Banff again, I would do this hike again and try to make it up to the Beehive!
After our time at the teahouse, we hiked back down and we were thrilled to be walking downhill! It only took us about 35 minutes to get down! The hike in total was about five miles roundtrip, and our legs were already getting sore. We checked out the gift shops in the Fairmont Chateau hotel, dipped our feet in the Lake, and then caught the bus back to our car. We made it home to our Air B & B, made a quick dinner and totally crashed! Getting up for sunrise at Moraine Lake, canoeing and then the Lake Agnes Teahouse hike was A LOT for one day, but we were really happy with our decision!
White Water Rafting
Today we signed up for white water rafting with White Wolf Rafting in Canmore. We walked to Eclipse Coffee in the morning to get some lattes and we made our breakfast at home before getting ready to go. The staff at White Wolf was lovely during the check in process and they had a really cute dog! We met our guide Cam and he helped us get our wetsuits, helmets, booties, and life jackets on. We boarded their bus and drove about 30 minutes to get to the starting point on the Kananaskis River (say that three times fast). Once we arrived we went over the commands and safety precautions. It was slightly overcast with a chance of rain, but it didn't really matter because we would be getting wet anyway! We practiced paddling as a group, did our final checks, and headed into the water.
The rapids here were level 2-3, so not anything too crazy. I was honestly not worried about us tipping or falling overboard at all, but when we hit the first rapid our boat went on it's side and we were practically vertical! Shannon and I were screaming and fighting to stay in the boat, but we kept tipping closer and closer into the water. Our guide Cam fell out of the boat and we had to navigate out of the rapid without his instructions. Somehow we got back upright and continued on without losing anyone else. We made it out of the rapid and then Cam swam towards us. He got back in the boat and we all laughed but in the moment it was a little bit scary. The rest of the rapids were no big deal after that. We all had so much fun, got very wet, and laughed a lot. The last ten minutes had no rapids so we were just floating down the river and enjoying the sights. We did hear some thunder while we were on the water, but no lightning! My arms were already sore from all the paddling we did. At the end we helped get the boats out of the water and they had sodas and chips waiting for us. We learned that this river has all manmade features which were designed for white water rafting. There was also a spot where people were river surfing which was cool to see! The water level in the river rises and falls with rain so no two trips are exactly the same. Cam told us that the river was higher than usual today which makes the rapids less intense. We got back on the bus, rode to the office, dried off and changed before heading to get a late lunch.
For our late lunch we walked down the street to Tavern 1883, and found out we arrived during happy hour! All meals and drinks were 40% off between 2-4! We both got really delicious drinks and I ordered a bowl with pulled pork, rice, and mango salsa which was one of my favorite meals of the trip! We walked around Canmore for a while checking out some of the shops and then we went back home. We both enjoyed the hot tub, played some rummikub, took a nap and made a light dinner to hold us over before bed.
Johnston Canyon & Downtown Banff
After a few days of intense physical activity we knew we wanted an easier day on our bodies but still wanted to explore Banff. We decided to head to Johnston Canyon for a hike. We got there around 8 AM and there was still plenty of parking available. The trail was fairly easy and took us about one hour round trip. Most of the trail was on metal catwalks above the rushing water in the canyon. It felt very safe and stable, and it was really cool to be right on the edge of the canyon. Along the hike there were several viewpoints of different waterfalls, and my favorite part was this rock tunnel that you have to walk through to get to the Lower Falls! It is a very small space so people take turns going in and out of the tunnel. Warning, if you go in there, you will get wet! Once we made it to the Upper Falls, you could view the falls from above or walk out on a narrow catwalk at the bottom. We did both. Since the catwalk is very narrow, when it gets busy here it feels very crowded. A line forms for both the Lower Falls tunnel and the Upper Falls viewing platform. If you are interested in a longer and more challenging hike, you could continue onward towards the ink pots, which are shallow colorful pools of water, but we decided to skip it!
After our hike we stopped in the little cafe to get drinks and snacks. They also had a cute gift shop and I got a really yummy jelly donut. Today we wanted to check out downtown Banff to look for souvenirs and we grabbed some lunch at The Boss Kitchen & Bar. We sat on the upper floor with a great view of the mountains and split a really good BBQ chicken pizza. I got a spicy pineapple margarita which was refreshing. We loved this restaurant and enjoyed learning about "The Boss" who is the biggest grizzly bear in Banff. They do brunch on the weekends too! We walked around Banff for a while browsing the different shops and we both found sweatshirts. I also splurged on a t-shirt and a long sleeve shirt! There was also an amazing store, The Spirit of Christmas, that Shannon could have stayed in for hours (she is obsessed with Christmas). Overall, it was a lot of fun walking around and checking out all the fun stores!
Emerald Lake at Yoho National Park
Our last full day in Banff! This was a free day so we weighed our options and decided on Emerald Lake in Yoho National Park. It was about 1.5 hours from our Air B & B, so it was a bit of a drive. On our drive there we saw a wolf, several elk, and lots of deer! We arrived at Emerald Lake around 8:30 AM and got one of the last parking spots! The Lake was absolutely stunning, and even though it was a little cloudy we were able to see the mountains reflected in the water. At the end of our walk, the Sun decided to peak out!
The walk around the lake was about 3 miles and relatively flat. We stopped to take pictures along the way and enjoy the views. There were a few spots with roots and mud, but overall it was a simple walk. There is a lodge with a cafe, bathrooms, and lots of cute cabins. If I were coming back to Canada I would love to stay in a cabin here. At the end of our walk we saw a beautiful family of Common Mergansers. There were 15 babies and one of them was even riding the mother's back! We got some coffee and snacks at the cafe and decided to head out. On our way out of Emerald Lake we saw so many cars parked along the road! Make sure to get here early or take a shuttle, or you'll be stuck parking very far away.
On our drive back we finally saw a black bear! It was walking along the side of the highway! We both were so excited and looped around to try and see it again, but it was already gone. Some crazy lady stopped in the middle of the highway and got out of her car to try and take a picture of it and she almost caused an accident. Don't be like this lady! We were starving on the way home and needed something quick and easy so we grabbed A&W burgers and sodas. We relaxed for a bit and played some rummikub after a busy morning. For our last night of the trip we wanted to get a nice dinner so we went to The Grizzly Paw at the Tank 310 Location. They have a brewery on the bottom floor and a restaurant on the top floor. We took a very questionable elevator up to the top and ate on the deck with a nice view of The Three Sisters mountain range. We both got espresso martinis! For dinner, I got the half chicken which was delicious. While we were enjoying our meal the clouds moved in and it started to get super windy so we had to move indoors. We decided to go on our own bear hunt and drove up the Mt. Norquay road to see if we could find a bear, but we were not successful. We ended the night with ice cream at The Scoopin' Moose which hit the spot.
Canmore ➡️ Calgary ➡️ Boston
This morning we had one final breakfast at Summit Cafe, packed up our bags and hit the road. Our flight was at 3:30 PM, so we aimed for an arrival time at the airport of about 12 PM. The drive back to Calgary was very rainy but we made it unscathed, filled up our rental car with gas, and dropped it back off in the parking garage. The security line took a little longer than expected, but we still made it to our gate with plenty of time to spare. The real excitement came when I remembered I'd stuffed a bag of cherries in my backpack to save them from the trash. I had to declare my bag of cherries, and in a panic I started shoving them in my mouth to finish them, but the security agent just laughed and said it was 100% fine. Shannon and I still laugh about it. We played a few rounds of rummikub in the airport, I ate a lot more cherries, and soon we were on our way! Our flight was not very full so we were upgraded to row 6 for a few amazing moments, only to have an older couple complain and steal our seats. 🤣 We ended up sitting in the emergency row so we still had extra leg room. Our flight home was pretty turbulent and we had a hard landing in Boston, but we made it home in one piece!
Banff was stunning and my pictures really do not do it justice! If I were to visit again, I would try and stay in the National Park for a few nights, maybe do some camping, and drive the Icefields Parkway up to Jasper. I would also love to come here in the winter to go skiing! This summer, Banff had free park admission from June 19th - September 7th, so we never had to pay an entrance fee to get into the parks. If you are thinking about coming to Banff my biggest advice is to wake up early to avoid the crowds! The cell phone service is not reliable, so you may want to download some maps on your phone before your trip. We thought about renting bear spray but decided against it since we only did very popular crowded trails. We were both really happy with all the activities we booked and we got very lucky with the weather we had. Thank you Banff, I hope to return someday!
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